FOR THE LOVE OF COCONUTS

My love for coconuts started at a young age. At the age of two, my parents took me on a trip to the Philippines to visit family. For one month, we stayed at my mother's parents house in Manila and everyday for that one month I had a ritual. I would go outside at a certain hour every single day and sit on the step of my grandparents house waiting for the "buko" man to arrive ("buko" is the tagalog word for coconut). And everyday at the exact same time, he would come, pushing his heavy cart full of coconuts down the street and selling them to those who passed by and to those whom he passed. And he always knew to stop in front of me; he would know that I was waiting for him. He would take a young coconut filled with coconut water, hack the top off the coconut with his giant machete, stick a straw in the little hole he had carved and hand it to me. My mother tells me this story with great fondness although I was so young, I have barely a memory of it. But I believe that my affinity for fresh coconut was tied to this early experience with the filipino buko man. 


Fast forward some 25 years later and what was only a vague inkblot of a memory (if you could even call it a memory) flashes before me as I taste my first fresh coconut in decades on the streets of south India. Not only do I discover that it is the perfect way to rehydrate after a very early morning yoga practice, it is also much cheaper than buying a bottle of water or one of those sugary sport drinks. Packed with naturally-occurring electrolytes - those little guys that help with rehydration - the water from the coconut is a godsend in hot and tropical climates like in India or the Philippines. 

My day is just not complete without a coconut (Mysore, Karnataka, India)

Coconuts are a way of life for many Indians, particularly in the south where the tropical climate is more conducive to the cultivation of coconuts. The coconut and the "coconut man" (and sometimes woman) are as ubiquitous as the cows that roam freely on the streets. Like the stand-and-sip espresso culture of Italy, it is common to see people ride up on their scooters, drink their coconut water quickly while at the coconut stand and then zoom off to their destination. 

In India, I also discovered the benefits of using coconut oil externally, replacing my drug store moisturizer with a much cheaper bottle of coconut oil which I could also use to cook with. In fact, it is common in Indian culture to use coconut oil in the hair in place of conditioner. Bear in mind that there are processing differences between the hair oil and the cooking oil. I embarrassingly learned this through a local friend who came to visit my place when I was staying in Mysore, Karnataka in the south of India. He saw my blue bottle of coconut oil sitting on the kitchen shelf. He asked me if I used that oil for cooking. When I said yes, he was more than a little surprised and told me that Indians don't normally use that type of oil for cooking. Just for hair. What I learned that day was that not all coconut oils are created equal. For cooking, you want to look for an unrefined cold-pressed virgin oil, similar to when looking for a good olive oil, while a processed oil is fine for external use. I guess that explained why, at the local supermarket in Mysore, some of the coconut oil was in the hair care section and some was in the food section.

After having been spoiled with cheap and abundant access to coconuts in tropical locales like Bali and south India, I arrived on the Big Island of Hawaii. I knew that fresh coconuts were available but I also discovered that they are slightly pricier than in Asia (not a big surprise but admittedly a little disappointing). On the east side of the Big Island of Hawaii, for example, $2 is about the price of a coconut. Sometimes your neighbourhood coconut vendor will charge you extra to machete it open for you. Unless you are skilled in the art of machete, I advise you to pay the extra money or else risk the loss of appendages. In other parts of Hawaii, like Honolulu in Oahu, coconuts can cost as much as $10. I was told that coconuts are more of a cottage industry in the Hawaiian Islands, which came as a surprise to me considering there are so many coconut trees. They just don't spend time cultivating and farming them. It still worth the cost though, considering we often spend upwards of $4 on specialty coffees and other beverages and I would consider the coconut something very special.

Boy, this coconut sure if refreshing (photo courtesy of Nationaal Archief)

Do-It-Yourself

If you are feeling a little daring, are physical fit, and happen to have access to a machete, then you might feel compelled to climb a coconut palm and get a coconut all on your own - renegade style. Many coconut trees grow wild and you'll often see people in India and even Hawaii climbing coconut palms to get their hands on the goods themselves. There is definitely an art to coconut harvesting. The tree climbing is the first part, then there's the hacking off of the coconut, and finally coming down. For me personally, it's the getting down that would be my biggest challenge. The coconut palm can grow up to 30 m (98 ft). That's a mighty long way down!

Beware of falling coconuts!

For those who yearn to find themselves sitting under a shady coconut tree on an idyllic tropical beach, beware!  What may seem innocent and serene could prove fatal. Many die each year from falling coconuts. As the coconuts mature they can become loose from the tree. Imagine you're sitting under a 30 m tall coconut palm. The coconuts sit high up near the top of the tree right under the palm leaves. Now imagine the impact of one of these heavy coconuts disengaging from the tree and falling to the ground - or worse, someone's head. It's very common to see signs cautioning passersby and leisure-seekers of falling coconuts. My rule of thumb when choosing a shady spot on a beach, whether I'm in Bali, Indonesia or far north Queensland in Australia, is to first look up. Coconut trees can provide great shade but at what cost. Just make sure that the tree is empty of fruit first.

Coconut palm on the Big Island of Hawaii

The coconut does not fall far from the tree, but it does fall far to the ground

Still, despite the dangers (which, of course, easily avoided), the coconut ranks as one of my top favourite foods of all time - for both flavour and versatility. A little bit of coconut oil, milk, or cream can play a minor role in a dish, enhancing the flavours in curries and stews. The meat adds dimension and texture to smoothies and baked goods. It can also play a starring role in coconut-flavoured anything. And the meat and water are great all on their own. For generations, all over Asia, South America, and the Pacific Islands, the coconut has been venerated as both food and medicine because of its nutritional and healing value. What's not to love?

One coconut for every day of the week

For those who have never had the pleasure of drinking the fresh water straight from a newly macheted coconut, here are a few tips:

• When asking for your coconut, be sure to tell the coconut vendor what type of coconut you want. A young coconut yields water but no hard coconut meat although you might get a little jelly. An older coconut will give you a sweeter water and lots of delicious white coconut meat. Sometimes the water from the older coconut can be a little fermented and bubbly like champagne but it should still be ok to drink. In fact, some people like it this way.
• After you've finished drinking the water, ask the coconut vendor to hack it in half for you if there is any meat inside. The vendor will probably also  cut off a little piece of the husk to use as a scoop. Coconut water and meat can be very filling. In fact, if I have a coconut with a lot of meat, I'll ask the coconut vendor to cut it in half for me so that I can take both halves home with me and have the meat later.

Lessons in Life

Maya Angelou said that "making a living is not the same as making a life". I think Winston Churchill before her said something similar. I'm sure these words have been reiterated in some form or another over hundreds of years by insightful people who recognized a truth about human nature and the world we live in. Wise words. And food for thought. They are words that I've been pondering over for the last three years since quitting my full time job to pursue ...Life.

We have what seem like tough choices to make as we continue to be bombarded by the restrictions that society straps us down with. And by society, I essentially am referring to anyone and anything around us that communicates a message to us. That's pretty much everyone and everything.

My entire life was filled with ideas about what I "should" be doing. Nothing out of the ordinary. It's the same message we all get. Get a good degree. Get a good job. Get a good husband/wife. Buy a good house. Have some good kids. Make some good money. Have a good retirement. I was always on the fence about what to do.

As a young girl, I wanted to be a Buddhist but decided to sneak into dance clubs instead. And eventually, I got the degree. I got the job. I never quite got to the other parts. But I was still of the age where it wasn't deemed necessary ...yet. I was definitely getting close or at the point of my life where I was feeling the pressure of finding a suitable mate, buying a suitable house, and having suitable kids. I was uneasy about the whole thing. It seemed like a pretty long commitment, all these "things". And I wanted to see the world and continue to learn, without these constraints.

I took matters into my own hands. I took a drastic leap of faith. I left my job, packed up my apartment, and went to India. Three years and one Australian boyfriend later (we're still together), I've had the privilege of living in four very different countries - India, Australia, Peru and Argentina - where I've had the pleasure of seeing some of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. But more importantly, I've had the honour of learning some of the most important lessons I've ever learned. Namely, how be happy, how to forgive, how to trust, and how to love (myself and others). Basically, I learned how to live.

....Now I just need to learn how to make a living through Living. I'll let you know how it goes.

Packing for the journey

In preparation for my first backpacking trip through Europe (10 years ago!), I had absolutely no idea what to bring. I had never been abroad on my own longer than a couple of weeks. I actually brought an upright on wheels and had to lug that thing up and down the numerous (and often steep) stairways and inclines of Europe. Not the wisest decision. But I definitely learned my lesson. I didn't actually invest in a proper backpack until about 4 years later when I took a holiday traveling through Egypt with my roommate.

My friends at home are often amazed that I'm able to pack up my life in a bag (sometimes 2). They say that "courage is the power to let go of the familiar". The more you purge, as scary as it can be, the freer you are. You realize how much you don't actually need and you don't even miss it when it's gone.

However, that being said, this is still a continuing challenge for me. My partner is MUCH better at minimalizing (is that a word?) and purging than I am.

My packing process always involves making a list. I am a HUGE proponent of lists. Perhaps a little manically so. I thought I might share my current packing list for a couple of reasons:
a) it'll be useful for me - I can refer to it again
b) it might be useful for someone else

So here's the laundry list for this upcoming South American sojourn (the rugged Peruvian Amazon followed by the sophisticated city of Buenos Aires in Argentina). I think the list is pretty adaptable for other tropical warm-weather locales. Always bear in mind the cultural context of where you will be and be respectful of that (ie. in a conservative country like India, I would bring more conservative clothing). PS - Being a woman, what I feel I need to bring to be comfortable is more extensive than what my boyfriend would pack (his bag is half the size of mine).

What I do is start packing a week before I have to leave. I do what I call a "vomit" and just throw everything that I think might be useful into a pile on the floor. Once it's all on the floor, I weed through the mess, paring down until I have just the bare essentials. I then do a "test pack" and if it doesn't fit into my pack, I do another purge and continue to do so until it all fits. It's a bit of a process but I always feel good about what I've packed in the end. Oh yeah, always leave room for extra stuff that you'll end up gathering along the way.

THE LIST

• 1 dressy outfit (just in case)
• accessories (belt, jewelery, bandanna, hat ...for the sun, wrap ...for the cool & the sun, small purse/bag/pouch)
• bag protector (for when it rains)
• bath stuff (creams, foot scrub, liners, tampons, diva cup, nail clippers, nippers, file, razor, scissors, soap/body wash, toilet paper, toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, tweezers, wipes) ...make sure it's all biodegradable!!
  
• bathing suit
• bed sheet (you never know when this might come in handy)
  
• binoculars (not necessary but would be great to have in a natural environment)
• bottoms (jeans, leggings, shorts, skirt)
• bras (a variety of styles - ie. strapless bra - no more than 3)
• chargers and cables
• citronella (a great natural alternative to chemical repellents)
• converter/adapter
• sundress
• first aid stuff (bandages, disinfectant cream)
• flashlight/torch (a head torch is your best bet)
  
• footwear (always a tough one for women ...sandals, walking/hiking shoes)
• hair stuff (anti-frizz, comb, elastics, clips, hairband, shampoo, conditioner)
• insoles
• light jacket
  
• locks and carabiners
• make up (baby powder, brushes, bronzer, pencils, eyelash curler, sharpener, shadow, lip gloss, lip moisturizer, perfume ...just in case)
• mesh laundry bag (great for the delicates if you're not handwashing)
  
• plastic bags (for all sorts of reasons)
  
• camp shower
• rainboots (or as my boyfriend would call them - GUMboots) ...It's rainy season!
  
• raincoat (gumcoat?)
• sarong
• socks
• tops (long sleeve, tank)
• towel and facecloth
• travel pack (PASSPORT and copies, visa, any other paperwork, itinerary, hand mirror, lip moisturizer, hand cream, book, journal, pen, camera, ipod, earphones, netbook, sunglasses, tissue, bank card, credit card, insurance info, flight itinerary, ginger tablets for motion sickness)
• underwear (enough for the week)
• yoga stuff (clothing, mat) ...because that's my practice

You may have noticed that there are some key items missing from my list, namely a mosquito net and a variety of pills and other medication (ie. malaria pills, immodium) for travel. The mozzie net is actually very useful, however in my case, not necessary as the place I'm going supplies nets. As for the medication, it's a personal decision whether to bring these items or not.
Do your research and use your judgment. I always see a travel doctor before I leave for an exotic adventure ...but I don't always take their advice. Experience and education will guide you in your decision.

...Now I've got to try to stuff everything into my pack! Wish me luck...